| One notable
aspect of Jacksonville’s dining scene is that many of our city’s best
restaurants are located in strip malls with little ambiance, places where
one can get a truly fine meal in a setting indistinguishable from the shop
or dentist’s office next door
Such is the case with Tonino’s Trattoria, which
opened in April on Merrill road. (The restaurant is the same Tonino’s that
closed its busy Jacksonville Beach location last summer when owner
Antonino Di Bella was forced out of the country for four months to resolve
an immigration paperwork problem.)
Located next door to Albertson’s, the owners have
tried to soften the built-out space with sea foam green walls, sculptures,
artificial plants, and Italian music (That’s Amore played during
dessert). There’s a small bar overlooking the dining room, and the waiters
light candles on the tables when evening sets in. The setting is not
unpleasant in any way, just unremarkable.
That said, Tonino’s food is excellent. If the holy
grail of any restaurant is its consistency, Tonino’s comes close to
capturing it. The menu offers a stupefying array of baked and boiled
pasta, fish, chicken, veal, seafood, grilled dishes, and pizza. The
traditional favorites such as lasagna, veal marsala, and fettuccini are
here, along with interesting nightly specials and many upscale entrees.
My experience at Tonino’s suggests that the chef
understands classical Italian cooking. There is a noticeable difference
between his light hand and respect for ingredients and the
usual American tendency to over sauce and over cheese anything that has an
Italian-sounding "ini" suffix. The presentation of all the dishes is so
nicely done.
Begin with an order of a half-dozen mussels ($4.95)
in a lemon butter and wine sauce with capers and parsley. The simple lemon
sauce is a delicious accompaniment to the briny taste of the mussels. The
Ravioli Fritti ($4.95) is another winner: several large pillows of
ricotta-filled pasta come breaded and deep fried with a bowl of thick,
tomatoey marinara. The ravioli’s crispy outside and soft, cheesy inside
make a comforting prelude to a light entree.
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Entrees come
with a forgettable house salad, a mix of boring iceberg lettuce, tomatoes,
purple onions, and mozzarella, dressed in a very nice, slightly sweet
house vinaigrette. In addition to the salads, sides of pasta accompany the
fish, chicken, and seafood entrees.
The Pollo Francese ($10.95) is one of the best
versions of this popular dish that I have ever had. The chicken breast is
pounded thin, lightly fried in an egg batter and served with mushrooms and
parsley in a lemon, garlic and butter sauce. The chicken is tender inside
and slightly crispy outside, and the sauce has the right combination of
citrus and garlic without overwhelming the flavor of the mushrooms.
The chef’s restraint in putting this entree
together is a hallmark of his skill, because I could still taste the
chicken through the tangy sauce. The side of fettuccini comes with
marinara, but I think just olive oil and a little garlic might compliment
the dish even better.
The Red Snapper Al Limone ($12.95) is a simple
presentation of the fish sautéed in a rosemary, garlic and lemon sauce.
This dish has a light, clean taste that works well with the side of pasta
and red clam sauce.
Dessert selections change, but Tiramisu ($3.50) and
Cannoli ($2.50) are regulars. With its liqueur-soaked ladyfingers,
marscapone and cinnamon, tiramisu is the Italian equivalent of apple pie,
and Tonino’s serves a fine rendition. The cannolis’ fried sugar shell and
sweet ricotta filling with chocolate chips was too rich for my taste, but
the confection will satisfy anyone with a big sweet tooth.
Service is attentive, perhaps too much so. (Servers
always walk a fine line between ignoring and annoying customers.)
Appetizers, entrees and desserts for two total approximately $45 without
any alcohol, which makes Tonino’s a good value for the quality of the food
offered. Dinner is the only seating at Tonino’s, but it’s open daily, and
I recommend going.
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